EAST KIMBERLEY

It's been a while since I've posted anything, basically because we've been on the move a lot, travelling from Queensland across the Northern Territory to WA.

The trip across the Barkly Tablelands, up the Stuart Highway to Katherine, then west along the Victoria Highway to the WA border was uneventful, though Eric needed a few days' rest in Katherine after three solid days of driving from the Queensland border.  All through the Territory the trees and shrubs were in flower - eucalypts, wattles and the purple flowered shrub which I think is turkey bush. I know I've said it before, but the countryside really is looking its best.

From Katherine, we overnighted at Victoria River Roadhouse:

then moved on to the WA border and the Quarantine Station where all our fresh fruit, vegetables and honey were confiscated.  So we arrived at Lake Argyle 'resort' in need of supplies.  In their fridge they had one, almost past it, cucumber and one over-ripe tomato so, with the addition of some olives and feta cheese, we were able to whip up a 'Greek' salad. 

Swimming pool overlooking Lake Argyle

Sunset at Lake Argyle

The man-made Lake Argyle was created by damming the Ord River, orignally for the purpose of irrigating cotton crops, but cotton didn't work.  They seem to have found that melons and mangoes work best, and Indian Sandalwood.  As a result of the damming, the Ord River and environment have been adversely affected.  I wonder whether it was worth it. According to the sign at Lake Argyle, it holds about 21 times the volume of Sydney Harbour. 

Ord River upstream from Lake Argyle

KUNUNURRA
 



Eric at Kelly's Knob lookout, Kununurra

Kununurra from Mirima (Hidden Valley) National Park

  

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Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve (on way to Wyndham)

Black Creek waterhole (on way to Wyndham)



WYNDHAM

What can I say?  On the basis that a picture is worth a thousand words, here are two thousand words:



Wyndham Tourist Infromation Centre

 

Hazy conditions overlooking Cambridge Gulf from Five Rivers Lookout (where the King, Pentecost, Durack, Forrest & Ord Rivers flow out to sea)



ALONG THE GIBB RIVER ROAD

It's generally hot, dry and very dusty,

interspersed with river crossings and gorge oases:

The camp grounds run sprinklers all the time in an effort to keep up some green grass.

Camped at El Questro (note solar panels)

Livistona Palm Forest at Zebedee Springs

Thermal pool at Zebedee Springs

Chamberlain Gorge

Rock art spotted at Chamberlain Gorge

Attired to walk Emma Gorge

An hour of scrambling up and down the side of the gorge, over and around rocks and boulders and across stepping stones over the creek

and we reach the waterfall at the end of the gorge

where we sit and cool off for a while before tackling the return trip.  Three hours after starting, we returned to the cafe where we got a much needed cold drink.  (By then what was left of our water was as hot as we were.)

After a short rest, we decided we could make it further along the Gibb River Road to Home Valley Station in time for lunch.  But, alas, about 10 kms short of Home Valley we got a flat tyre.

Surprisingly, no one came along for about 15 minutes, although a tour bus did pass and the driver waved.  Then about six cars came along one after the other and a very competent chap, travelling with his young son, lent a hand and saw us safely across the Pentecost River.  As the tyre had a split right in the middle of the tread, it couldn't be repaired and so had to be replaced at Home Valley.  Given that they charged an arm and a leg for the new tyre, I'm glad it was replaced at Home Valley which is run by the Indigenous Land Corporation, rather than the Voyages controlled El Questro.  Unfortunately, we didn't get to see much of Home Valley as we were anxious to get back to El Questro before dark, which sets in about 5:15.  Apparently some of the movie Australia was set at Home Valley and if I had my time over again, I'd camp there rather than at El Questro. 

Every cloud has a silver lining, as they say.  In this case an advantage of driving back later in the afternoon was that we got to see the setting sun light up the colours of the Cockburn Range - truly spectacular.

Back in Kununurra, we retrieved the van from storage, re-packed the camping gear, replenished supplies, washed and repaired stuff and now we're ready to head off again.  Next stop is Purnululu National Park and the Bungle Bungles, then we'll amble along the bitumen on Highway 1, called the Great Northern Highway in these parts, through Warmun (Turkey Creek), Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing before reaching Derby on 14th July. 

After experiencing the state of the Gibb River Road, I think we've given up on trying to make it down the Tanami Track to Wolfe Creek Crater  -  too far and too rough  -  but we'll see if there's anyone at Halls Creek who might run a tour.